Waterloo & City: Gourmet British Grub

There are several British pubs in Los Angeles, but , which opened in May last year at 12517 West Washington Blvd. stands head and shoulders above the rest. Named after a central London underground railway line, Waterloo & City is a true British gastropub, serving refined food in a relaxed atmosphere.

Co-owners Carolos Tomazos and Brendan Collins (who is also the restaurant's executive chef) said they chose to open in Mar Vista because of the diverse nature of the neighborhood's patrons. "There is a general feeling of pride from people that live here and the neighborhood is really picking up and developing," says Tomazos. "It seems that it is all happening in a very organic and healthy way and we are glad to be part of it.”

Both Tomazos and Collins come from a French fine-dining background (Collins is a Brit) and have worked at some of the top restaurants in the world (Quo Vadis in London, Per Se and Le Bernardin in New York and Melisse, Anisette and Palihouse in Los Angeles). They’ve taken the techniques they've learned and infused them with their own  ideas at Waterloo & City.

“In a gastropub, the menu can be inspired from many different types of cuisine and is not limited to one particular style,” explains Tomazos. “Gastropubs first began in England about 10 years ago," he continues, "where a lot of young chefs who wanted to own their own businesses, found that it wasn’t possible financially. They turned to rundown pubs and churches, made some quick renovations and did great food in a very comfortable and relaxed atmosphere, always providing good value. Our story is exactly the same.”

The place was bustling on a recent Thursday night when I popped in for dinner. Brightly painted, recycled church pews provide some seating, as well as, cushy, suede banquettes. Black wainscoting on the walls create dramatic interest against stark white paint. I especially liked the twinkle lights strung around the perimeter of the restaurant, which added a romantic and festive quality and were easily viewed through the glass windows.

I believe that if you get good bread at the beginning of your meal, you’re likely to receive good food as well, and I was not disappointed.  The bread, made in-house daily was warm and fresh. Both the multi-grain with poppy seeds and white bread with garlic were delicious.

First to arrive was the Tuna Tartare with a fried piquillo pepper and avocado. The pepper provided a nice balance of crunchiness to the tuna’s melt-in-your mouth goodness.

I loved the arugula salad with tangerines, smoked almonds and parmesan. The citrus, balsamic dressing didn’t overpower the salad and there was a good crunch throughout.

My dining companion had the Sea Scallops with fresh English peas and ravioli, beautifully arranged in a bright green pea puree. The scallops were tender and the flavors all worked well together.

When my enormous Vegetable Pot Pie arrived, it looked so beautiful that I hesitated to cut into the golden, flaky crust. The crust was nice and light, but I did find the inside to be a bit too soupy. The dish came with a nice side salad with fresh burrata. Next time I’ll try the Wild Mushroom Pizza with smoked mozzarella and truffle oil or the popular Indian Butter Chicken Pizza with a murgh makahni sauce.

Waterloo & City  is also known for great charcuterie – all those terrines and pates take a lot of skill, time and hard work. Our favorites were the duck terrine with orange marmalade and chicken liver foie gras with sweet potato jam.

I ordered the dessert special of the night, which was house-made donuts with vanilla and strawberry sauces, which were light and heavenly. The traditional British dessert, Sticky Toffee Pudding with salted caramel and milk ice cream, was also good and not too sweet.

I, for one, am thrilled that we have such a wonderful dining choice in the neighborhood. Eating sophisticated, delicious cuisine (without the pretentiousness of many fine dining restaurants), in a relaxed atmosphere is the perfect way to dine. We had outstanding service as well. I look forward to returning again and again to this fine gastropub.

Waterloo & City.  12517 West Washington Blvd, Culver City, CA 90066. 310-391-4222