Venice Dining Options Expand with Larry's

The opening of Larry's raises the bar of local dining options and adds yet another hotspot on Windward Avenue, which has been steadily developing in recent years.

So who is Larry? Larry Bell is a well-known local artist, a pioneer of California Minimalism, primarily known for his glass cubist sculptures in the '60s. The Spacecraft Group's design of the restaurant pays homage to Bell's style.

And the restaurant is not lacking in culinary style, either. Larry’s team combines Waterloo & City chefs Brendan Collins and Carolos Tomazos, and Hotel Erwin owners Mark and Erwin Sokol. 

The food is inventive, the scene is laid-back beachy, and the bustling half-moon shaped bar invites convivial conversation.

Many of the menu items borrow from Waterloo, and, in general, you can count on Collins’ famed charcuterie, as well as pizza and other dishes influenced by French, Italian and Californian cuisine.

Assistant general manager Zach Estomo, who also hails from Waterloo & City, is a congenial host, providing this reviewer with a nice sampling of luncheon menu items.

On Friday, Joe Cook (yes, that’s his real name), another Waterloo veteran, was at the helm, and his expertise was in full bloom.

Thankfully, all the lunch items are less than $15. The portions are ample, and the flavors are creative.

The Green Chorizo Pizza ($14) was my first dish, topped with egg, chipotle and tomato sauce. It had a nice kick to it, and the presence of the egg added a flavorful blend of protein as well. 

For richer palates, check out the Prime Beef Short Rib Grilled Cheese ($12) crammed between sweet raisin bread, and topped with arugula and Chantal cheese. I’m a bit reticent when it comes to decadent creations like this, but I can think of 15 friends of mine who would gladly devour this sandwich.

My palate was then nicely cleansed with Larry's Organic Baby Butter Lettuce & Vegetable Salad ($9) laced with Green Goddess dressing and brioche croutons. Healthy, yet filling.

A must-try on the menu is the Green Gazpacho Soup ($10), nicely framed in a white hat of a bowl with succulent char-grilled squid, smoked almonds and green grapes. This was by far the most interesting of the lunch items, and a great reminder that chefs can leave culinary dreams upon which we can feast for hours.